nashvegas
Junior Member
American Standard 3 tone
Posts: 50
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Post by nashvegas on May 17, 2010 17:30:24 GMT -5
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Post by pwfirst on May 17, 2010 20:57:28 GMT -5
Now thats a tele build, some day when I retire that will be a goal.
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Post by pwfirst on May 20, 2010 20:59:56 GMT -5
I got toys delivered today so I am off to the races. These two things are the fret shaping tools. The wood piece is an 8 in sanding block with a 9.5 in radius. You attach 240 - 400 sand paper to the bottom edge and run it up and down the neck until all the fret are the same heights and straight. This should be an easier process that I have used in the past. The file beside it is for rounding the edges of the frets. You round the sides but not the top of the fret, you want it a thin flat top surface area for the strings to contact. I am refinishing a bathroom this weekend so I am hoping to start on the neck next week with pictures of the whole process. Phil
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Post by 469roadking on May 21, 2010 17:39:00 GMT -5
Can I borrow that when you're through? You've inspired me Phil. But instead of committing to a full blown build, I decided to just redo my existing Tele. I changed the 3 saddle ashtray bridge to a Gotoh 6 saddle unit, reversed the control panel so that the pup selector is at the rear now, ordered a new neck (maple with a 9.5" radius) Grover tuners, new trees and so forth. I'm developing a few ideas for the waterslides, so I can have a "custom serial # and nameocaster. I been havin fuuuuun. And it's all your fault. ;D Cool side note: I sold my original neck on another forum and the guitar player for Marc Anthony hooked me up with Zendrive guy and he bought it. I felt pretty cool for a day or so. Rubbin elbows with the beautiful people. Anyway, thanks Phil.
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Post by pwfirst on May 22, 2010 12:52:09 GMT -5
Good Luck with the remodel of your Tele. Since you already have the bones, might as well put them to good use. Over the years I have been blamed for many things, I have wide shoulders... I am getting anxious to start the neck, I may take it apart tomorrow and get started. I think the radius sanding block will be much easier than my old way. And for only $14, it was a bargain. I am planning on starting with 320 grit paper. When you do this you take your time and don't use much pressure on the block.
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Post by pwfirst on May 27, 2010 22:36:32 GMT -5
I will finish my bathroom tomorrow, took a little longer than I expected. I will start the work on the neck this week end. I am getting anxious to get this boy done. Picture very soon. Phil ;D
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Post by pwfirst on May 31, 2010 22:43:08 GMT -5
Back in the saddle again. After making the neck as straight as I can with adjusting the truss rod with 1/8 turn to loosen it the neck was very straight. It was possible to see some frets that were too high or too low with my metal straight edge.. I have just finished working on the neck. I took my 9.5 radius sanding block and used carpet tape (double sided tape) to attach 400 grit sanding paper. I wanted to start out with very fine sand paper so it would be a slower process and would not over sand the frets. The block is 8 in long and you put very light pressure on it and make 4 passes and then look at the top of the frets with a bright over head light. You can see the top of the fret as it gets flattened. The goal is to keep going until every fret is flat on top. Once this is done you know your frets are now all level You can see the top area on the fret is flat.. It is important to note that all the frets don't have to have the same width of flatness Some will be wide some will be thinner. Once you see the width of the flat surface you want on all the frets stop leveling the frets. The radius sanding block was amazing to use, it leveled all the frets at the same time keeping the radius of the neck consistent. The next step was to use the top of the sanding block and attach more sand paper and take down the ends of the frets that had become ruff feeling. I spent a lot of time on the edges and they finally became smooth. I used some small pieces of sand paper and rounded the edges of the frets and they feel pretty good now. The next step will be to use my fret file to round the side of the frets until the flat surfaces are all the same width. I checked my guitars and my Clapton Strat had a fairly wide flat surface but my Ibaneze were thinner.
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Post by pwfirst on May 31, 2010 23:04:44 GMT -5
Here is a quick look at the neck straighten process. If the neck is straight the straight edge will come in contact with all of the frets. If the neck is bowed and there is a space between the straight edge and the fret you just loosen up the truss rod and the neck will straighten. Mine became straight with just 1/8 of a turn
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Post by pwfirst on Jun 2, 2010 7:38:46 GMT -5
I have just finished the first stage of the fret dressing. 1st step Level the frets with the radius sanding block with 400 paper, get the good stuff, wet dry sand paper Step 2 Use the fret file to round the sides of the frets leaving the top of the fret with narrow flat surface for the string to make contact with. Step 3 use 400 sand paper and sand the ends of the frets until they are flat with the sides of the neck then use a small piece of 400 sandpaper and round the ends so they are smooth and don't catch on your finger when you rub over them. They do make a rounding file for this but sand paper works well. ( the ends of the frets were already cut at a 35 degree angle but this can be done with a sanding block too,mine had sharp ends) I like the side of my neck and the frets to be very smooth. Step 4 take 400 sand paper and start to polish the sides of the frets, try and stay off the wood. Only takes 4 or 5 passes on each side of the fret. The first picture shows my progress to date. There are #2 steps left. #1 600 sand paper on the ends and side of the frets and #2 use my dremil to polish the frets. But now I have to finish sanding the neck with the 400 sand paper until it is very smooth. I will put my first coat of sanding Nito on the neck, frets and all. and then sand with 600 and repeat this until every imperfection in the wood is gone under a bright light. Then several coats of satin Nitro with sanding between coats. It will be done in a week or so. I am very happy with the results so far. The main thing is don't rush it, don,t press very hard with the sand paper, use fine sand paper only 400 and higher(you can always sand more but is hard to build up defects) ( if you do gouge something by mistake use several coast of super glue gel to fill in in, sand and cover). Use a sanding block on all flat surfaces...... I'll talk about my prep work and spraying of the sealer and Nito later.
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Post by lesblues on Jun 2, 2010 14:43:49 GMT -5
I am so impressed.
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Post by pwfirst on Jun 2, 2010 22:01:01 GMT -5
I couldn't help my self, I tired the dremil and a polishing wheel and the frets really started to shine, they are going to look and feel great. The bottom frets have been polished a little and they should really shine when I am done. The next step starts tomorrow. I have a can of sanding sealer and a can of satin Nitrocellulose. I can tell you that it has really been very easy so far, I expected a lot more trouble. Encase you noticed the white stuff on my finger nails is not finger nail polish it is the end of my bath room remodel. Our upstairs bath had an old Robin egg blue color tub and shower that my wife said had to go. A new one was $3000, having it refinished was $1200 , and the material to do it my self was $289. Guess which one I chose. A 12 step refinishing process. Looks great but it got in the way of my guitar project. Oh well more money for guitars, how could she say no after all the money I saved. I must be dreaming she will never go for another guitar!!! I think you are next Les, I hear your wife is very handy in construction, she might give you a hand. Ha Ha
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Post by lesblues on Jun 3, 2010 3:02:27 GMT -5
A new one was $3000, having it refinished was $1200 , and the material to do it my self was $289. Guess which one I chose. You could almost be Scottish Phil.
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Post by pwfirst on Jun 4, 2010 18:27:04 GMT -5
Back at it. The sanding and prep-work for spraying is now done. I have just finish the 4th and last coat of the sanding primer. between each coat I sanded the whole neck with 600 grit paper. As you can see I have a little attachment that I use to spray with and it works great, keep the paint off your fingers. This neck is going to be very smoooooooooth. I am planing for 6 yo 8 coats of satin nito on the neck. sanding smooth with 600 before each coat and steel wool after the last coat followed by a buffing of the neck. The very last thing is to clean the frets and polish them. My goal is to have this neck feel soft and smooth.
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Post by pwfirst on Jun 4, 2010 23:07:11 GMT -5
I am on a roll now. Just put on the second coat of nito on the neck and it is looking great. Sprayed the first coat on and let it dry. Nitro dries quickly. Sanded it with very lite 400 to take the shine off and then hit it with 400. . I took a sharp razor blade and used it to scrape the edges of the frets very carefully to remove the built up nitro. Then sanded it with the 600 one more time. Takes about 30 min. to do the neck and get it ready to re-spray it. You don't sand it for ever. You just take the shine off it. Very light touch does it. I thought you guys would like to see the mandatory equipment used for the proper building of a guitar. You will notice a lot of sand paper 400- 600. Sharp knife blade. Dremil with several attachments. Masking tape, Screw drivers, fret file and fret sanding block. And of course " SCOTCH". ;D This bottle is turning into one of my favorites it is called Sheep Dip. Only some one from Scotland would have the stones to name it that. I will finish the neck this weekend if all goes good. Then comes the set up. If everything is straight that should go pretty fast you just keep tinkering until it sounds and plays the way you want. I can already tell this has that high end feel of a custom neck. If I can get the finish perfect I will have to celebrate
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Post by gasman on Jun 5, 2010 0:11:00 GMT -5
You will notice a lot of sand paper 400- 600. Sharp knife blade. Dremil with several attachments. Masking tape, Screw drivers, fret file and fret sanding block. And of course " SCOTCH". ;D This bottle is turning into one of my favorites it is called Sheep Dip. Only some one from Scotland would have the stones to name it that. That settles it! I guess I'll never be able to build a guitar because I don't drink...Just kidding! I'll never be able to build a guitar because Murphy's Law really likes me and I have no manual dexterity whatsoever! I'll stick with the store-bought kind, thank you very much, but my hat is off to you in the biggest way Phil! Thanks for posting all of this!
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